Seasonality is a concept fairly well ingrained in the minds of most chefs. Spring approaches and lighter fare begins to make its way to the menu; summer arrives and with it the popularity of grilled food, from bright red peppers to blood red steaks; fall means that it’s time to reap the benefits of the harvest; and winter signals a shift to comforting stews and long-braised meats. Similarly, for many sommeliers, a shift occurs in the wine selection, with the light reds and crisp ...

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