Los Angeles restaurateur Bill Chait was looking for a way to cover his rent after he closed a restaurant and began reworking the space into something new. So in late August he launched a concept called Test Kitchen in the building’s basement and invited a few “homeless” chefs — those between gigs or working on the menu for a soon-to-open concept — to take the place over for a few days at a time. What he hadn’t anticipated was that the temporary concept ...

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