Geoffrey Zakarian has a new baby, his third. This time around his wife, Margaret, put in the hard labor, but six years ago it was Zakarian himself enduring the pain.“I couldn’t sleep at night,” the chef recalls. “I was a bundle of nerves.”In the spring of 2001, his first child, neither boy nor girl but restaurant, was running six months late and way over budget.“In this business there are always delays,” he says. “But this was really on the extreme end of normal.” A week before ...

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