Arestless chef drawn to both the rigors of hard science and surreal airs of theatricality, Homaro Cantu has made his restaurant Moto one of the country’s premier establishments for avant-garde dining. His menus—some of which are edible, thanks to food-based inks on paper made from soybeans—tilt toward the wilder extremes of molecular gastronomy, and his wily spirit works into service methods that cast waitstaff in dramatic roles. Cantu started at Moto after moving to Chicago to work at ...

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