There was a week recently when it seemed difficult to open a London paper without reading high praise for Tom Norrington-Davies’ cooking. Food critic Fay Maschler credited him and his partners with “more or less single-handedly bringing astute food to Covent Garden.” Time Out listed Great Queen Street as one of five contenders for the Best British category.Norrington-Davies, who changes the menu for every meal, is fast gaining recognition for his straightforward yet occasionally surprising ...

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