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On Wine: Underappreciated American wine regions attract attention as consumers expand their horizons

On Wine: Underappreciated American wine regions attract attention as consumers expand their horizons

With great wine being produced in some of the least likely places around the world—take Tannat from Uruguay, for example—it should come as no surprise that producers from all areas of the United States are getting in on the action, too. And while the rise of quality bottlings from off-the-beaten-path wine regions is unlikely to challenge the supremacy of the country’s most famous appellations, it is, nonetheless, having a very real impact on restaurants.

California, Washington and Oregon still dominate the domestic sections of most wine lists, of course. But these days, there are more opportunities than ever before to introduce guests to wines and regions that they’re likely unfamiliar with.

Much of this is simply a matter of numbers: There are wineries in all 50 United States, many of which are benefiting from increased investment and a willingness to experiment with both varietals and winemaking methods.

The other major factor is the maturing domestic wine market. Widespread wine appreciation, after all, is a fairly recent phenomenon on this side of the Atlantic, and consumption and understanding continue to rise.

Restaurant guests seem to be showing a greater willingness to taste and order wines from all over the world, and they’re somewhat interested in wine from around the country, provided they are adequately and enthusiastically explained.

In this regard, the youth of the American wine culture has proven beneficial. There is very little wine orthodoxy in this country—outside of the unavoidable brand-obsession of certain consumers. The wine simply has to be pleasant on its own and pair well with the food it’s being sipped alongside.

This, of course, means that sommeliers often have to hand-sell the more obscure bottles. But the benefits of doing so—educating the guest, moving bottles that otherwise would likely sit unnoticed on the list—far outweigh the effort that goes into it.

Some of the most exciting wines in America are being produced in areas where you’d least expect them. The Mid-Atlantic region, for example, is in the midst of a wine revolution the likes of which President Thomas Jefferson could only have dreamed about. Specifically, Virginia has built a reputation as a haven of sorts for finicky Viognier. But the state’s wine industry is not limited to that one specific varietal. Kluge Estate’s SP Blanc de Blanc 2004, for example, shows exactly what East Coast sparklers are capable of. Its creamy, gently toasty nose and zippy lemon character on the palate make it both a fabulous aperitif as well as a solid pairing partner at the table. And Kluge’s New World Red Wine, a Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and a dash of Malbec, displays, despite its name, an almost Old World sense of restraint in its scorched earth and tobacco notes.

Long Island’s North Fork, too, is screaming for attention these days. The Old Field’s “Mostly Steel” Chardonnay 2005 is a crisp, deliciously understated bottling. Paumanok Vineyards also produced an exciting American botrytized wine with the late harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2006.

In upstate New York, Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Salmon Run Pinot Noir from the Finger Lakes is a light-bodied charmer. Chaddsford Winery, about an hour southwest of Philadelphia, is one of the state’s standouts; particularly well-made is winemaker Eric Miller’s “Naked” Chardonnay, whose lack of oak is pushing fans to rethink what they know about East Coast whites.

Another hot spot is New Mexico, where Gruet Winery is producing some fabulous sparkling wines.

So while the supremacy of California, Oregon and Washington winemaking regions remains unquestioned, there are more opportunities for domestic wine experimentation all the time. And in a wine culture as large and varied as America’s is becoming, expanding customers’ horizons is easier than it’s ever been.

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