With great wine being produced in some of the least likely places around the world—take Tannat from Uruguay, for example—it should come as no surprise that producers from all areas of the United States are getting in on the action, too. And while the rise of quality bottlings from off-the-beaten-path wine regions is unlikely to challenge the supremacy of the country’s most famous appellations, it is, nonetheless, having a very real impact on restaurants.California, Washington and Oregon ...

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