Recently, I was excited to provide a friend with a list of my favorite restaurants in Paris. Outside of New York, Paris is the best city in the world, and I’ve been lucky enough to go often and revel in French food and wine. When he returned, I learned one of his worst restaurant experiences was at my favorite place, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Saint-Germain. I was dumbfounded. I had been there at least five times, and every dinner was impeccable. You just can’t ...

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