Surf and turf was the quintessential luxury meal for middle class Americans in the 1960s and ’70s. Consisting of a classic lobster tail (usually frozen) and steak (often filet mignon) the “Continental cuisine” dish was a staple on menus for decades.
Today, a number of chefs across the country are reinventing the classic dish, in part to meet the expectations of a new generation of diners that is more knowledgeable about food.
“What I have been seeing often on menus are more surf-and-turf items,” said executive chef Michael Hung of Faith & Flower, a vintage-inspired New American restaurant in Los Angeles. “While there are classic surf-and-turf items, lobster and steak for example, or fish and bacon, that have been ubiquitous on menus, you are now seeing more interesting combinations of meat and fish.”
Hung is among chefs offering a fresh take on surf and turf. He is currently serving Plancha Seared Pacific Swordfish with roasted mushrooms, ramps and foie gras broth.
“I think the reason for seeing these innovations is that the American dining public is steadily becoming more savvy,” Hung said. “There are great chefs operating in smaller cities through the country who are serving innovative food that was once only done in the larger, food-centric cities. These chefs are collectively broadening the knowledge of the average diner, and there is a positive feedback loop, so that chefs can increase the level of complexity and interest in their food.”
Chef Alain Allegretti, the new culinary director at Beautique, a modern American restaurant featuring market-fresh fare prepared with French techniques located in Midtown Manhattan, sees it as part of his job as a chef to reinvent classic fare for his guests.
“I love finding ways to put a twist on a standard dish,” Allegretti said. “It works best when the base is already great and you can find that special something that elevates it.”
Allegretti’s improved take on surf and turf is halibut with paella risotto cake, crispy asparagus and a chorizo sauce. It’s a dish that began with Allegretti’s passion for paella — that “special something” — to which he decided to add his own French seafood flair.
Added to the menu in April, guests have already eagerly embraced Allegretti’s alternative surf and turf.
“Surf and turf is a classic dish; our guests have had it dozens of times,” Allegretti said. “With my expertise in seafood, our guests trust me to deliver it in a way they have never had it before. It has been a huge hit.”
At Cherry Izakaya, a modern Japanese tavern in Brooklyn, N.Y., chef John Keller offers an Asian-influenced surf and turf. His Roasted Bone Marrow & Uni is made with shiso gremolata, yuzu and onion marmalade.
While surf and turf is still considered a luxury meal, the casual brunch and lunch chain Famous Toastery offers a fresh, affordable take with its new Lobster BLT. Created by Brian Burchill, Famous Toastery’s co-founder, the new sandwich is made with Hormel Old Smokehouse Bacon, Boston Bibb lettuce, tomato and fresh Maine lobster in Old Bay mayonnaise, served on country white bread with a side of mixed field greens dressed with balsamic vinaigrette. Added two months ago, the new sandwich is available as a special on weekends.
“What we have created is a very affordable surf and turf in a breakfast and lunch place,” Burchill said. “People really, really love it; it has been a huge hit. And people have been surprised to see fresh Maine lobster at a brunch restaurant. When people question if it is real, we bring out the whole, fresh lobster and show it to them.”
