The elemental substances in the name come together to make pasta, and this ambitious upstart in the Mission takes its namesake equation seriously while offering wood-fired pizzas and other artisanal fare to pay tribute to the finer points of Italian simplicity.

Website: flourandwater.com
Number of seats: 60
Average per-person check: $40
Popular dishes: Ricotta triangoli with asparagus, preserved lemon and brown butter; salsiccia pizza with pork sausage, caramelized onions, nettles, trugole and chille; agnolotti dal plin
What people come for: House-made pasta, house-made ricotta, house-butchered meats
Address: 2401 Harrison St.
Phone: 415-826-7000

The Bay Area outpost of the international Hakkasan group pulls people into a busy part of downtown, with dramatic surroundings indoors and out.

Website: hakkasan.com/sanfrancisco
Number of seats: 65
Average per-person check: $70
Popular dishes: Hakka steamed dim sum platter with scallop shumai, har gau, Chinese chive dumpling and black pepper duck dumpling; crispy duck salad with pomegranate, pine nut and shallot; stir-fry black pepper beef ribeye with Merlot.
What people come for: Striking view of bustling Market Street area, different seating options in 10,000-square-foot space
Address: 1 Kearney St.
Phone: 415-829-8148

A home for haute cuisine in the more energetic than elegant neighborhood of the Mission, Commonwealth traffics in visually striking and flavorfully nuanced fare from chef Jason Fox.

Website: commonwealthsf.com
Number of seats: 45
Average per-person check: $55
Popular dishes: Squid and pork belly with pickled red onions and herbs; peanut butter semifreddo with caramel and frozen popcorn
What people come for: Worldly approach to food in local neighborhood environs
Address: 2224 Mission St.
Phone: 415-355-1500

At this Jackson Square outgrowth of their beloved Quince — Cotogna is “quince” in Italian — Michael and Lindsay Tusk pay tribute to Italy with seasonal local fare served in upscale rustic form.

Website: cotognasf.com
Number of seats: 60
Average per-person check: $40
Popular dishes: Heritage red wattle pork with kale and pickled cherries; spit-roasted cauliflower; charcoal-grilled quail “alla diavolo;” tortelloni with fava beans and morels
What people come for: Open-fire cooking, daily changes to menu
Address: 490 Pacific Ave.
Phone: 415-775-8508