Established for years but energized more recently by James Beard Award-winning chef Ashley Christensen, whose empire in Raleigh continues to grow. Christensen also owns Beasley’s, Chuck’s, Death & Taxes, and more.

Website: ac-restaurants.com/pooles
Number of seats: 70
Average per-person check: $60
Popular dishes: Macaroni au gratin; royale with cheese; rabbit confit pot pie.
What people come for: Chalkboard menus that change daily.
Address: 426 S. McDowell St.
Phone number: 919-832-4477

This stately, sophisticated cocktail bar in Durham takes its drinks seriously but pays as much mind to the food, from full hearty entrées to small plates and charcuterie.

Website: barvirgile.com
Number of seats: 41
Average per-person check: $30
Popular dishes: Local mushroom risotto with butternut squash; New York strip steak frites; local and imported charcuterie and cheeses.
What people come for: Inventive and classic cocktails.
Address: 105 S. Mangum St.
Phone number: 919-973-3000

Rabbit confit pot pie

A look at the interior dining area

Steak dish at Death & Taxes

Chef Andrea Reusing, winner of a James Beard Award for her work at Lantern in Chapel Hill, created all the food and drink offerings for this boutique hotel in Durham.

Website: thedurham.com/dining
Number of seats: 80, plus 25 on the patio
Average per-person check: $50
Popular dishes: Relish tray: raw, pickled and preserved vegetables with smoked pecans; The Buster: deviled North Carolina blue crab soufflé baked to order; Rutherfordton chicken with North Carolina cracked wheat, savoy cabbage and smoked bacon.
What people come for: Meals for all dayparts
Address: 315 Chapel Hill St.
Phone number: 919-768-8831

Chef Ashley Christensen oversees antic cooking around a wood-fired grill at this Raleigh favorite.

Website: ac-restaurants.com/death-taxes
Number of seats: 62
Average per-person check: $65
Popular dishes: Dry-aged steak with spring onions and chimichurri; roasted oysters with preserved lemon and chile butter; octopus with lady peas, cilantro and lime.
What people come for: Singular cocktails, numerous wines by the glass
Address: 105 W. Hargett St.
Phone number: 984-242-0218

Mac and cheese dish

Mint julep