The mood and food of the south of France comes in for some California sun and fun at this younger Santa Monica sibling of another Little Door in Beverly Grove.

Website: thelittledoor.com
Number of seats: 132
Average per-person check: $65
Popular dishes: Grilled Prime rib eye steak, sel de guérande, herbs and cracked black pepper with potato-leek gratin and baby broccoli and carrots; pork shank osso buco and charcuterie sauce with farro risotto and baby broccoli and carrots; roasted wild cod crusted with porcini mushrooms and brioche, lemon and caper sauce with sweet potato purée and braised fennel.
What people come for: Seasonal cocktails, diverse wines by the glass, outdoor seating
Address: 246 26th St.
Phone number: 310-310-8064

Inside the dining room at Broken Spanish

Grilled octopus at Little Door Santa Monica

Striking a neighborhood vibe was a goal for this market-minded gastropub with progressive ambitions on the outskirts of Studio City.

Website: thebellwetherla.com
Number of seats: 70, plus 30 on the patio
Average per-person check: $45
Popular dishes: Tempura cauliflower with Thai chile, mint, Thai basil and nam pla dipping sauce; meatballs (pork and beef) with pecorino and ricotta cheese, tomato sauce, grilled ciabatta and pecorino romano; charred octopus with tabbouleh, preserved lemon, Greek yogurt and green olive.
What people come for: “R&D” menu section for samples of works in progress, craft cocktails with house-made infusions (bourbon with cinnamon and apple; vodka with kaffir lime; tequila with cranberry; gin with grapefruit)
Address: 13251 Ventura Blvd.
Phone number: 818-285-8184

The Bellwether's carrots

For this refined addition to the Old Town center of Pasadena, chef Bruce Kalman promises diners a “deeply personal” and market-minded take on Northern Italian cuisine with Californian touches.

Website: unionpasadena.com
Number of seats: 50
Average per-person check: $45
Popular dishes: Wild mushrooms and Grist & Toll polenta with Pedro Ximenez sherry vinegar, sage and rosemary; shaved fennel salad with arugula, grapefruit, house made ricotta and fennel sorbet; squid ink garganelli with Maine lobster, fennel, Meyer lemon and truffle butter.
What people come for: Mindful wines from Italy and California, house made Italian sodas, distinctive desserts
Address: 37 E. Union St.
Phone number: 626-795-5841

Protein and produce are treated with equal measures of respect in popular Los Angeles restaurants, where diners can get lamb neck, pork shank (and rinds), wild cod or a great ribeye, or they can go for tempura cauliflower or beet pibil.

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Winner of the roaming Cochon 555 head-to-tail pig-cooking competition Chef Ray Garcia took a turn at modern Mexican food for this downtown collaboration with local restaurateur Bill Chait.

Website: brokenspanish.com
Number of seats: 125
Average per-person check: $55
Popular dishes: Lamb neck with king oyster mushroom and queso Oaxaca; beet pibil — yellow beet with achiote, pickled onion and bitter greens; chicharron with elephant garlic mojo, radish sprout and picked herbs.
What people come for: Distinctive desserts, “decadent cocktails”
Address: 1050 S. Flower St.
Phone number: 213-749-1460

Shrimp served at Broken Spanish