Beef tartare drifts in and out of fashion, and currently it’s in, especially if it has some regionality and a story behind it. If you can use local ingredients, all the better. This dish has all of that.
Joe Humphrey, director of Hi Neighbor Hospitality Group in San Francisco, said he has been interested in the combination of beef and oysters since he worked as a line cook in New Orleans, where beef filet is often garnished with poached or fried oysters, and he decided to do a variation of that at The Madrigal, which opened in December.
He starts with grass-fed beef from Point Reyes, Calif., which is diced and mixed with minced shallots that have been cooked in sherry vinegar, along with the Japanese spice blend shichimi togarashi. It’s dressed with Nashville-style hot oil, made by infusing olive oil with several varieties of chile, and some minced chives.
The tartare is plated with oyster cream (basically oysters poached in cream and puréed) that is then topped with more tartare, and then garnished with fried oysters that are dressed in Nashville hot oil once they come out of the fryer. The dish is accompanied by sliced sourdough toast smeared with seaweed butter.