Belgian beers — whether large, internationally recognized lager brands or small, ultra-niche ales — are on the rise. As sales of many other varieties stagnate, certain Belgian breweries and their importers are actually unable to keep up with demand, with sales growing in the high single or even double digits.
The reason, observers say, is perceived value.
“When economic times are bad, people make a value judgement as to what is worth [their money], and I think that despite their generally higher price, unique Belgian beers are still seen as worth it,” said Michael Roper, owner of the Hopleaf, a Chicago bar and restaurant featuring beer-friendly cuisine. “It’s like when people still buy artisanal cheeses — there’s no substitute.”
Keith Schlabs, partner and beer guru for the 14-unit Flying Saucer chain of beer bars and the new Meddlesome Moth gastropub in Dallas, agrees.
“Customers are getting smarter, coming in and asking for certain brands by name rather than just ordering a pale lager,” he said. “They know what they want, and, in a lot of cases, it’s these higher-end beers.”
The fact that Belgian beer importers are improving their logistics and marketing is definitely helping matters, said Schlabs, noting that as more SKUs enter the marketplace, their presence increases consumer awareness of the category.
“People are also excited about American breweries that are producing Belgian styles,” said Schlabs, “and the awareness of these beers reflects back on the Belgian originals.”
Perhaps the biggest draw of Belgian beers, however, is the ceremony that comes with them, whether through large bottle sizes suitable for sharing or the branded, often quite elegant, glasses in which they are served.
“We carry 92 different beer glasses at the Hopleaf,” said Roper, adding that the specialty glassware not only adds to the perception of value in the beer, but also promotes “copycat” ordering when customers see an eye-catching bottle and glass delivered to a nearby table.
“If you’re making a special product, it deserves a special glass,” said Roper. “Imagine ordering a fine bottle of Bordeaux and it being served in a plastic juice glass — it would destroy the sense of occasion. Belgian beer glasses create that sense of occasion.”
