Fried seafood loses its hold on diners

Fried seafood, long a favorite preparation, is losing its hold on diners. Instead, seared and pan-roasted seafood dishes are on deck to replace fried fare.

It’s unclear whether the shift is motivated by diners’ desire for more healthful fare, more flavor or both, but chefs across the country are putting more seared and roasted seafood dishes on their menus — and diners are eating them up.

According to recent research from Datassential MenuTrends, “pan-seared” and “roasted” are among the top five seafood preparations at restaurants for center-of-the-plate seafood dishes. “Roasted” appears on 19 percent of menus, a 14-percent increase since 2010. “Seared” appears on 17 percent of menus, a 13-percent rise. Though “fried” remains the most popular seafood preparation on menus, appearing on 43 percent of them, in the last four years “fried” has declined by 14 percent.

“[Searing and roasting] provide the cook with more control over the cooking process,” said chef Kyle Rourke of Red Star Tavern in Portland, OR. “Therefore, the flavor is great.”

While fish tacos traditionally feature fried fish, Rourke pan sears halibut fish tacos. Maximum flavor and control inspired Rourke to choose pan searing over frying for the tacos, which he serves with tangy cabbage slaw, spicy escabeche pickles and salsa verde.

Red Star Tavern’s customers clearly enjoy the non-traditional preparation. Rourke says the tacos are a bestseller at lunch.

Fried fish is also eschewed at the two Miss Lily’s Caribbean restaurants in downtown New York City.

“Frying is delicious, but guests are trending towards healthier options,” said Miss Lily’s chef Adam Schop. “I like roasting because it gives the fish a favorable golden crispy crust while the texture of the fish remains soft and flakey.”

Schop gives Atlantic Cod that crispy crust treatment in his Roasted Atlantic Cod with Caribbean Pumpkin and Sweet Trini Peppers.

Similarly, chef Nick Anderer of Maialino in New York City pan sears the fish in his Pesce alla Piastra: Seared Cobia with Manila Clam Stew and Ramps, to enhance the flavor and texture of the fish.

Though pan seared and roasted have been gradually growing on menus that feature seafood entrees, some other methods have been growing faster: char grilled and wood-fired or wood-grilled. Though they only appear on a small percentage of menus, Datassential reports that they are among the fastest growing seafood preparations.

Wood-fired rotisseries and grills are the heart of Kapnos, a modern Greek restaurant in Washington, D.C. Chef Mike Isabella uses them to cook many of the restaurant’s dishes, including the charred octopus with eggplant and harissa. The smoky seafood dish is among the restaurant’s most popular offerings.

At Del Campo, a new South American grill in Washington, D.C, diners can watch their food grilled or smoked over an open flame, including recent menu items such as the Spiny Brazilian Lobster Tail.