Striving for greater speed, precision and productivity, a growing number of operators are embracing the combination oven-steamer. While the pricey but versatile apparatus is hardly standard equipment in most kitchens, it is increasingly visible everywhere from hotels to college foodservice to casual concepts and white-tablecloth restaurants.
It’s commonly known as the “combi” because it has three modes of cooking—convection heat, steam and a combination of both—in a single unit. Each mode can be applied separately or in a series of steps programmed into onboard memory. It can steam, bake, roast, poach and, in some cases, grill, fry and smoke food, typically faster than using individual pieces of equipment to do those tasks and with lower labor and skill requirements. The multifunctional oven replaces other pieces of equipment and saves kitchen space.
“They’re pretty wonderful machines,” said Joseph Friel, executive chef of the Beau Rivage Resort & Casino in Biloxi, Miss., part of the MGM Mirage group.
When the 1,740-room luxury property last year underwent a $550 million renovation after Hurricane Katrina, the food and beverage department received new double-stack Rational combis.
“I always wanted one, but until the renovation, it wasn’t in the budget,” Friel says.
One of the things he especially likes about the combi is its probe-controlled cooking feature. A temperature sensor probe inserted into a piece of meat halts the cooking when it reaches a preset internal core temperature. That eliminates the judgment involved in roasting, cuts down on costly mistakes and enables less-skilled employees to produce high-quality results.
BR Prime also relies on the combi to steam lobsters, crab legs and vegetables.
“It’s in constant use from 5:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. every night,” said chef Anthony Caratozzolo.
He notes that the combination of moist steam and convection heat cooks proteins with less shrinkage and more consistency than a traditional convection oven. The probe has even automated the baking of croutons, which are prone to burn in a convection oven if the chef leaves them a moment too long.
“We just insert the probe into one of the croutons and a buzzer goes off when they’re done,” Caratozzolo said.
Moreover, the combi is the fastest way to reheat bags of frozen gumbo, chicken noodle soup and baked beans from the property’s on-site cook-chill system.
“No one has to stir a pot,” Friel said. “There’s no burned, wasted food.”
The growing use of technology to boost efficiency is one of the top industry trends noted in the National Restaurant Association 2007 Forecast. The association expects full-service operators in particular to be more focused on raising productivity by integrating technological solutions.
A new double-deck combi at Davidson College, near Charlotte, N.C., replaced a faltering steamer and allowed the move of a convection oven to the bakeshop, said executive chef Craig Mombert. One of his favorite applications is slow-cooking barbecued ribs overnight in the combi. He seasons the ribs, inserts a probe and sets the temperature to 160 degrees Fahrenheit.
“When it hits that temperature, it holds the meat perfectly without overcooking,” Mombert said.
The Electrolux combi at La Goulue in Bal Harbour, Fla., produces moist, tender braised veal, said Christian Delouvrier, chef and co-owner. He recommends a 75-25 ratio of convection heat to steam for best results.
The double-stack combi at Bank of America in Charlotte, N.C., helps the foodservice team prep quickly for its typical 1,250 daily meals. The key uses are steaming rice and vegetables, reheating frozen soup, and cooking proteins.
“If we need anything fired off quickly, like grilled chicken or roasted vegetables, we put it on half-sheet pans in the combi,” said Benjamin Cadmus, executive chef of the Restaurant Associates account.
Price may be the last hurdle for chefs.
“It’s not cheap,” Friel said, noting that his kitchen’s combi cost about $48,000.
Mombert said: “We paid close to $40,000 for our two units. But it’s something that could pay for itself, especially if you can eliminate other pieces of equipment and program all sorts of dishes for easier cooking.”
