The Democratic National Convention comes to Denver next week. Such a historic event divides people into two camps—those who are excited and want to be a part of it, and those who are dreading all the crowds and fuss and plan to stay home.
I firmly believe journalists should remain neutral, so I won’t divulge which camp I support. But I’m sympathetic to the restaurant operators I’ve been talking to, both the thrilled and the apprehensive.
No one is sure what to expect as to whether this convention is going to be a money-maker or a financial flop for downtown restaurants. Nearly 50,000 people are expected to descend on the Mile High City. Past conventions are no reliable indicator. The last time Denver hosted this convention was in 1908, so no help there for modern restaurateurs.
The DNC in Boston four years ago doesn’t offer a good comparison either. The convention was held in the heart of Boston’s downtown, and barricaded streets and conventioneers reportedly kept the locals away. In Denver, the convention will be held at the Pepsi Center and Invesco Field at Mile High Stadium, event facilities that border many downtown businesses.
Most conventioneers will be bussed back and forth to their hotels. They will spend their afternoons and evenings at the Pepsi Center consuming “Lean ’N Green” food—organic, locally grown and healthy menus that are part of the Democratic Party’s push to make the convention green.
Still, some operators have been able to line up steady business during the convention.
In Denver’s historic Larimer Square, Rioja, an upscale restaurant with a Mediterranean-influenced menu, is sold out for lunch to private DNC groups, said general manager and co-owner Beth Gruitch. Gruitch and co-owner and chef Jennifer Jasinski also own French restaurant Bistro Vendome across the street.
“I think this is awesome, from a national standpoint,” Gruitch said. “My secret hope is that Denver is portrayed and shown in a great light. Here’s an opportunity to not only get rid of the cow-town stigmatism, but really shine as a sophisticated dining scene.”
On the other side of downtown, restaurant veteran Tom Walls, owner of the 26-year-old Trinity Grill and 18-year-old Rocky Mountain Diner, is expecting a quiet week. Both of his restaurants have only about 100 seats and are too small for DNC parties.
Given street closures, barricades and protesters, many of his regular customers have already told Walls they plan to avoid downtown during the Democrats’ visit. So while the event may be good overall for the city, Walls is being very pragmatic.
“I’m looking forward to the hoopla, but I’m not anticipating an increase in business,” he said, sounding a lot like a neutral journalist.
