As American bakers got serious about Old World breads in the 1970s, customers who tasted them quickly turned away from the downy, soft slices shelved at home. Same for beer about a decade later: As craft brewers reintroduced drinkers to nearly forgotten darker, richer styles, thin lagers never looked paler or tasted blander. Now a similar renaissance is happening with pizza. Though still recognized by the majority as a disc of crust, sauce and cheese delivered to the ...

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