For a special breed of pizza operators, the fragrance of wood smoke beckons more than the throughput of a conveyor oven.Wood-fired-oven pizza makers pursue a demanding craft that has changed little over the years. They tend traditional bell-shaped, stone hearth ovens stoked with blazing hardwood to 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit and above. They master the nuances of wood selection, fire management and split-second timing. It’s essential for turning a thin disk of hand-stretched dough lightly ...

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