The inability of some people to draw the line connecting the Southeast Asian and French cuisines has long been a fascination to me. After all, the French did colonize much of the region, however distasteful that idea might seem to our modern sensibilities, and as much as India still bears the mark of the British Raj, there is no escaping the linkage that lives on between France and Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and, more indirectly, other nations in the region. Thus, it should come as a ...

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