In early summer at the 103-year-old Occidental restaurant in Washington, D.C., chef Rodney Scruggs introduced a “duo of poussin”: a boneless grilled breast with buttermilk-soaked fried dark meat that is reminiscent of the common duck preparation of a grilled breast and confit legs. This item sells for $28 and will stay on the menu for the fall. He flavors his buttermilk with garlic, thyme and rosemary and puts some cayenne pepper and fennel in the flour.Scruggs removes the upper thighbone ...

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