Just as Parmigiano-Reggiano is a ubiquitous ingredient in Italian restaurants, the highly versatile feta long has been a mainstay on menus at Greek operations, appearing in such traditional items as spanakopita, salads and baked shrimp dishes.But chefs are expanding their use of this venerable cheese, which can be made from sheep’s or goat’s milk and offers a firm yet crumbly texture and a salty bite.At Meze Estiatorio in Charlestown, Mass., feta cheese sourced from Greece and bearing the ...

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