When Eben Freeman says he’s smoking Coke, he’s not talking about recreational drug use. The beverage director of Tailor, an avant-garde restaurant in New York City, actually pours the soft-drink syrup into a shallow pan and places it in a smoker over smoldering cherry wood chips. He then uses that syrup as a signature soft drink—for which he can charge $5 instead of the more typical $3—and a cocktail mixer that goes particularly well with bourbon. Smoke long has been an ...

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