Foraged mushrooms add both local color and umami to this dish that, with its seaweed and bonito flakes, already is an umami powerhouse. Chef Kevin Sousa starts by making a dashi, or seaweed-and-bonito stock, with kombu seaweed, smoked bonito, mushroom stems, garlic, ginger and sake. Then he adds a beaten egg and slowly simmers the stock until it thickens. He thickens it slightly more with a little kudzu, which he buys in crystallized form and grinds into a fine powder. He covers the ...

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