While running a private dining room for an invalid executive in Manhattan, chef Roland Levi had an epiphany: Why not have his own intimate dining establishment where customers could eat gourmet cuisine in a luxurious but small setting?He had already served haute cuisine in small settings for such prominent people as Brooke Astor, Lee Iacocca, Tip O’Neill and Margaret Thatcher, as well as for several former U.S. presidents and Princess Diana, when she was visiting the Hamptons on Long Island, ...

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