Simple, chef-crafted Scandinavian fare, unusual microbrews from the far north, the mysterious spirit aquavit, and whimsically named specialty cocktails are the agenda of the new restaurant Plaj in San Francisco. Swedish-born chef-owner Roberth Sundell said that his 50-seat venture is decidedly not in the mold of the New Nordic Cuisine restaurants that are setting the pace in global gastronomy, as some patrons assumed when he opened two months ago. “My goal was to have a Scandinavian ...

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