There’s a certain kind of romance attached to restaurants that are open late. Would anyone remember “Nighthawks,” the iconic painting of lost souls bound together in a diner at some misbegotten hour, if Edward Hopper had decided to set his scene at, say, 7:30 p.m.?
 Even more than romance, however, there’s a certain kind of business to be tendered as the hour grows late, and an increasing number of operators are angling to participate in what might well be regarded as ...

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