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Biodynamic agriculture may slowly gain fans among chefs

Biodynamic agriculture may slowly gain fans among chefs

Little by little, a new word is cropping up more often in conversations between chefs. That word is “biodynamic.”

Initially found more often on wine lists, the term is slowly making its way onto menus. But what is it exactly? Is it just a fancy word for “organic”? Is it another way to charge consumers more money for foods they already eat? And how commonplace is it likely to become?

Biodynamics is a farming practice that follows the geochemical rules of nature and takes into consideration the cosmos that surround us.

In essence, biodynamic farming gives farmers the tools to create an ecosystem that permits all living things to exist comfortably with one another. Specifically, it incorporates farming practices at their most basic level, taking into account the time of year, location, soil type, existing flora and fauna, and the gravitational pulls of the sun, moon and planets.

Biodynamic principles can be traced to Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian philosopher who lived from 1861 to 1925. He believed that to create a better food product all farming must be regulated by the natural cycles of the universe and that external products brought onto farms, such as animal feeds and manure, should be minimized.

As in organic farming, the use of pesticides and industrial fertilizers is strictly prohibited in bio-dynamic agriculture. However, unlike in organic farming, biodynamic loyalists claim that pesticides could actually become obsolete if practices are followed correctly. Biodynamic proponents also believe that artificial atmospheres, such as greenhouses, cannot be used, so seasonality becomes a major issue for operators and consumers in certain parts of the country with shorter growing seasons.

U.S. wine producers that were early adopters of biodynamic farming methods include Araujo Estate, Robert Sinskey and Grgich Hills of California’s Napa Valley and, in Oregon, Brick House Vineyards and Cooper Mountain. Wineries in Australia, France and Spain also have begun using biodynamic practices.

Demeter International, based in Brussels, Belgium, and named after the Greek goddess of grain and agriculture, was created in the vision of Rudolf Steiner as a way to promote and certify biodynamic farming. In order for products to bear the Demeter brand, they must follow specific guidelines ranging from the day and time of year they were planted and harvested to how seeds were cultivated and how many cows and/or acres were used.

Since wine producers were early adherents to biodynamic farming, sommeliers were among the first to seize on the term “biodynamic” as a marketing tool. At David Burke’s Prime-house in Chicago, the wine list features a selection of biodynamic wines. Similarly, Eno Restaurant and Wine Bar in Atlanta, Pure Food and Wine in New York, and Tres Bonne Cuisine in Boise, Idaho, all feature biodynamic wines on their wine lists. So are biodynamic entrées next?

Preston Dishman of the General’s Daughter in Sonoma, Calif., for example, uses produce from a biodynamic farm on his menu. And Les Trois Petits Bouchons in Montreal boasts a 100-percent biodynamic menu, one of the only such menus I’ve seen.

But does that mean there is more to come? I’m skeptical. Although biodynamic products would appear to be more “natural” than other sorts, the American public just now is beginning to accept the benefits and increased costs of buying organic. In my opinion, the public is not likely to swiftly embrace a philosophy that could be even more costly.

Further, biodynamic agriculture remains limited in the United States. Biodynamic farms are usually small and yield a limited selection of produce due to seasonality. Reduced shelf-life times and higher costs may prohibit their use in many restaurants.

But as the green movement gains traction in America, conventional farms may have to adopt some biodynamic farming techniques, helping to make the descriptor more mainstream. For restaurateurs looking for ways to increase revenues while supporting the environment, that would be a good thing.

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