Each week, several precious wooden boxes about the size of a half case of wine are delivered to Il Buco in New York City. Inside are 60 nearly identical Shigoku oysters, farm-raised in the Pacific Northwest. “I’m pretty selective about what oysters I carry,” said chef Joel Hough. “At Il Buco people have come to expect the absolute highest ingredients.” A few decades ago, Hough, who is committed to using sustainable ingredients, might have served wild-caught ...

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