What is it about winter’s abbreviated days and frigid temperatures that trigger our cravings for heavy, high-calorie foods at the very time of year when we’ve just resolved to swear off them? We classify cheesy-starchy casseroles, rich and meaty stews and gooey hot sandwiches as comfort foods for a reason: once eaten and inside us, all just seems well.
Fortunately, chefs have succeeded in reducing the negative nutritional impact of our beloved comfort foods — cherished dishes like Grandma’s multi-meat, multi-cheese lasagna. They have found that by replacing meats with vegetables and other lower calorie ingredients they can offer a new version of an iconic favorite that is both savory and smart. In addition, these wholesome remakes have led to further experiments with bolder sauces, varied cooking techniques and artful plate presentations.
Today the majority of restaurant chains provide menu items that balance dietary goodness with flavor and eye appeal. Corner Bakery Café’s Applewood Smoked Bacon Power Panini Thin is a 329-calorie morning jump-starter that packs on good proteins such as scrambled eggs, bacon and cheddar cheese and slides them between thin slices of whole grain toast.
California Pizza Kitchen’s version of the classic fried spring roll is a 120-calorie shrimp lettuce wrap that combines shiitake mushrooms, water chestnuts, scallions and a spicy ginger soy sauce dish that can serve four.
And Seasons 52 offers tacos containing beef that has been braised in red mole and served with jalapeño-lime slaw, guacamole and pickled red onion for a 420-calorie lunch entrée.
Annica Kreider, vice president of brand development for 175-unit Mellow Mushroom in Atlanta, says the pizza-centered chain’s evolution toward a healthier menu began in the 1970s, when a solid segment of “hippie customers” asked for vegetarian items. Mellow Mushroom’s founders were culturally similar, Kreider says, and even put an ad in an underground newspaper saying, “Vegetarians welcome.”
“Our founders even grew sprouts in the window, so that thinking has kind of always been there at the company,” Kreider says.
Several years ago Mellow Mushroom removed the meat from its classic hoagie to make two new healthful versions: one with teriyaki-marinated tofu and another with grilled tempeh. The Righteous Portobello Reuben, made from grilled portobellos, Swiss cheese, Bavarian-style sauerkraut, Thousand Island dressing and a crunchy rye hoagie roll, is also popular
“I’m not a vegetarian, but those are the things I like for lunch,” she says.
And instead of frying its chicken wings, Mellow Mushroom now roasts them in the oven. “Sales of those have gone through the roof,” she says. “I’d put our wings up against anyone’s fried wings.”
Sometimes the push toward healthful is simple, such as in the creation of the Iceburger at Mooyah Burgers, Fries & Shakes. The bun-less two-patty burger can be topped any way diners prefer, and the whole is wrapped in lettuce. Guests can boost its health profile even further by ordering turkey or black bean patties.
This year, 400-unit Pita Pit introduced a Resolution Solution lineup of six pita-based sandwiches under 500 calories, including the normally super-caloric Philly Steak. According to Benjamin Drake, vice president of research and development at the 214-unit, Coeur d’Alene, Idaho-based chain, the brand wanted to choose one of its most popular offerings to show customers it could be more healthful at 465 calories.
“With the Light Philly Steak we are able to still give you the Philly Steak grilled, topped with onions, peppers, shredded lettuce, mushrooms and ancho sauce for under 500 calories by omitting the cheese,” Drake says.
In 2014 at 36-unit Russo’s Restaurants — which includes Russo’s Coal-Fired Italian Kitchen and Russo’s New York Pizzeria — founder Anthony Russo began revamping several menu classics, such as the stuffed shells dish. He decided to subtract the pasta and replace it with hollowed out roasted eggplant halves. Russo also boosted the nutritional profile of his Caesar salads by replacing romaine lettuce with finely chopped kale and topping that with crisped prosciutto.
“I like to use a lot of fresh vegetables in our dishes to keep them more natural and keep food cost low,” Russo says. “That way these dishes are full of flavor and aren’t complicated.”
Quaker Steak & Lube took a slightly different tack this year by boosting protein content on already healthful items. According to Kate Malaniak, the chain’s senior purchasing director, the 60-unit Sharon, Pa.-based company took its classic wedge salad and added grilled chicken skewers.
“That’s a healthy protein and it’s filling,” Malaniak says. Quaker Steak's Chicken Crunch Salad typically is topped with breaded and fried chicken tenders, “but because it’s January and everyone’s thinking healthier, we did an LTO version with grilled chicken tenders. Little changes, but effective ones.”