John Besh has spent the past dozen years celebrating the cuisine of Louisiana and nurturing the creative talents of those around him. The former Marine — he helped liberate Kuwait International Airport during the first Gulf War in 1991 — has won most of the awards available to him, starting in 1999, when Food & Wine magazine named him one of the country’s best new chefs, when he was at the now-shuttered Artesia in Abita Springs, La. In 2001, Besh opened his own ...

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