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Breakout Brands 2016: Xi'an Famous FoodsBreakout Brands 2016: Xi'an Famous Foods

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Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

February 16, 2016

2 Min Read
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Technically, Xi’an Famous Foods is a Chinese restaurant, but don’t expect kung pao chicken or sweet-and-sour pork at this idiosyncratic chain. The owners of this nine-unit concept, father-and-son team David Shi and Jason Wang, specialize in the cuisine of the ancient Chinese capital of Xi’an in north-central China.

The terminus of the ancient Silk Road, Xi’an was a cosmopolitan city 2,000 years ago, and a unique and complex cuisine was developed there. That includes the spicy cumin lamb that’s featured in many of Xi’an Famous Foods’ dishes.

Xi'an spicy cumin lamb and hand-torn noodles

Founded in a 200-square foot basement in the Golden Shopping Mall in the predominantly Chinese neighborhood of Flushing, N.Y., in Queens, Xi’an Famous Foods soon saw lines out the door, and Wang reportedly saw the potential for expansion. Its distinctive menu and the hip-hop music generally played in the restaurants drew crowds as well as media attention — the chain has been featured on Andrew Zimmern’s “Bizarre Foods” and Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations,” both on the Travel Channel.  

Much of the food is now made in a central commissary to maintain consistency and speed up service, but the signature spice blend remains closely guarded secret and is reportedly made by Shi himself.

Now 11 years old, Xi’an Famous Foods still draws long lines at lunch, and the ownership strives to make sure guests enjoy their food. The menu board warns: “When hot noodles cool down, they get bloated, mushy and oily. If you must take your noodles to go, please at least try the noodles in the store ... so you can get the best possible Xi’an Famous Foods experience.”

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected].
Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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