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New York City’s Black Seed Bagels wants to put the fun back into traditional bakeriesNew York City’s Black Seed Bagels wants to put the fun back into traditional bakeries

Lively atmosphere and collaborations with other restaurants keep staff and customers engaged

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

March 27, 2020

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New York City and Montreal both take great pride in their bagels, and the owners of Black Seed Bagels try to bring out the best of both delicacies at their fast-casual chain, while also adding a fair amount of flair of their own.

“Bagel shops in both cities are sort of drab, low-service establishments,” said co-founder Noah Bernamoff, who’s from Montreal.

“The expectations of hospitality in these environments are fairly low,” added native New Yorker and co-founder Matt Kliegman.

So they had their executive chef, head baker and first hire, Dianna Daoheung, create a style of bagel all their own. It’s about half an ounce bigger than the Montreal style and an ounce or so smaller than a typical New York bagel. It has the honey used in the Canadian ones and the salt level around that of the American variety.

And they created restaurants that are fun, with good music, warm colors, a friendly staff and open kitchens, as well as — in another departure from bagel shops — an ever-changing menu.

Now with seven locations, all in New York City — where, unlike in Montreal, bagel shops serve sandwiches — Black Seed Bagel operates on a hub-and-spoke model, with two restaurants baking the bagels and supplying them to the other five restaurants. A third hub is slated to open in the Brooklyn, N.Y., neighborhood of Bushwick this year.

The menu includes classic egg salad, fish salad and lox sandwiches, as well as one with almond butter and jam, an Italian-style combo, and a rotating variety of other offerings. It also creates monthly collaborations with other restaurants, which keep their culinary and public relations teams busy and also help fans of both restaurants get to know each other.

This month’s collaboration is one with Marc Forgione’s Peasant restaurant and includes chicken liver mousse, black pepper cream cheese, pickled cauliflower and parsley-red onion salad. A previous one, in partnership with Russo’s specialty food shop, was made with warm prosciutto bread stuffed with Russo’s fresh mozzarella served with pesto dipping sauce.

Kliegman and Bernamoff say their restaurants gross around $4,000 per square foot annually, and they plan to open between three and five more locations this year, all in New York City, before exploring new markets. They have no immediate plans to start franchising.

Editor's note: The 2020 Breakout Brands — emerging innovative restaurant chains with fewer than 10 units that have proven growth potential — were selected and interviewed before the coronavirus pandemic hit the restaurant industry. Nation's Restaurant News has chosen to highlight these innovative brands as planned, but their growth plans may have been impacted by recent events. For our most up-to-date coverage, visit the coronavirus homepage.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected] 

Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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