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Breakout Brands: Asian BoxBreakout Brands: Asian Box

This is part of the 2013 NRN 50 special report, "Breakout Brands." This year NRN takes a look at 50 brands that are some of today's hottest emerging concepts. Meet the concepts shaking up the restaurant marketplace.

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

January 28, 2013

3 Min Read
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There’s a lot of talk these days about striking a resonant chord with customers, about getting them emotionally invested in a brand.

The Vietnamese-focused Asian Box concept has done that by selling a lifestyle.

Frank Klein, the fast-casual chain’s founder, said the particular lifestyle Klein is targeting with Asian Box is a popular one in the San Francisco Bay Area: no fried foods, fewer carbohydrates and grilled meats. Composting, recycling and sourcing organic and/or local products also factors into that lifestyle.

Consumers are responding, he added. He said he sees diners frequenting the restaurant several times a week, ordering Six Spice Blend Chicken over vegetable salad on one visit, Garlic and Soy Glazed Beef with white rice on the next and Coconut Curry Tofu on brown rice on a third.

“It has all those good traits that a lot of us look for in restaurants,” said Lynne Bennett, a food and wine staff writer at the San Francisco Chronicle. “They also give people choice, which is good. I think people have an affiliation with what they can see and pick for themselves.”

The menu is fairly straightforward, and ordering from it is simple for people accustomed to fast-casual dining or “column A/column B” Chinese restaurants:

• Pick a base — white rice, brown rice, cold rice noodles or Asian vegetable salad;

• Pick a protein — chicken, pork, beef, tofu or shrimp;

• Pick a vegetable — steamed or wok-tossed;

• Pick toppings and sauces, including bean sprouts, chopped peanuts, pickled vegetables, herbs, a secret spice blend called Asian Street Dust, house-made Sriracha, peanut sauce, tamarind vinaigrette and fish sauce. “Caramel egg,” a Vietnamese specialty of a hard-boiled egg coated in fish sauce and caramel, also is available.

Klein said that despite the name the restaurant is not pan-Asian.

“We’re Vietnamese,” he said. “Vietnamese chef-, Vietnamese ingredient-driven.

“Our beef with rice is a classic dish that people who have been to Vietnam say is as close as you can get to Vietnamese street food,” he added.

Even the chicken used is dark meat rather than breast.

Bennett pointed to one other distinguishing characteristic: Asian Box is entirely gluten free.

Although that wasn’t part of Klein’s original plan, he said when they opened and conducted a nutritional analysis of their food, they realized that without trying very hard they could be gluten free.

“We never wanted to do bánh mì,” he said, referring to the popular Vietnamese sandwich. So the only challenge was finding soy sauce without gluten.

Although most soy sauces contain wheat, Klein found several high-end brands made entirely of soybeans.

One telling factor that Asian Box’s regulars are at ease with the concept is they’ve started to do their own customizing, Klein said, noting, “People feel very comfortable saying, ‘You know, I want half brown, half white rice.”

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected].
Follow him on Twitter: @FoodWriterDiary

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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