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From grasshoppers to doughnuts, Safeco Field readies to play ballFrom grasshoppers to doughnuts, Safeco Field readies to play ball

Local favorites and stadium signatures to be offered to Seattle Mariners fans

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

March 24, 2018

4 Min Read
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Home of the Seattle Mariners, Safeco Field is gearing up for the Major League Baseball season. In a city of foodies, that means the stadium’s foodservice provider Centerplate needs to bring its A-game. Centerplate is doing just that with upgraded sandwiches and barbecue, dim sum and a doughnut machine. The stadium is also bringing back the breakout hit of last year’s offerings, grasshoppers.

General manager Steve Dominguez said many Mariners fans make the stadium’s food and beverages a big part of the game.

“We’ve got guests who are coming two hours before to watch batting practice, have a beer, have a hot dog,” he said. “It’s definitely a five- to six-hour process, which is why we also take time with the food. It’s a dining experience for the guests.”

Seattle restaurateur Ethan Stowell is continuing his role, now eight years running, as consulting chef for the stadium and he has updated his Dynamite Chicken concept with a fried chicken sandwich, hot wings, and garlic fries made with fresh garlic and Parmesan cheese.

New to the stadium are a couple different types of barbecue, including a Longbone beef rib.

“It’s a pretty gigantic short rib,” stadium chef Taylor Park said. “The bone itself is close to a pound, and on top of that you’re going to get another 12 to 16 ounces of meat.”

Park said Safeco has two smokers in the back of the park where the ribs are smoked for 16 hours to make them fall-off-the-bone tender, and slathered with barbecue sauce from Jack Timmons, whose Jack’s BBQ is a local favorite featuring delicacies from central Texas, including burnt ends, Frito pie, beef brisket and pulled pork sandwiches and smoked jalapeño-cheddar sausage.

The longbone ribs are $18.50, and other barbecue items range from $8 to $13.

Also new this year is a partnership with Taiwan-based chain Din Tai Fung, which has four line-out-the-door popular restaurants in the Seattle area. It’s taking over Safeco Field’s International Wok space and will serve pork wontons with spicy sauce, wonton soup, steamed bao buns stuffed with pork or a tofu-based vegetarian option, garlic string beans, chicken fried rice, hot and sour soup and boba tea. Prices range from around $8 to $15.

Dominguez said the city of Seattle is not only his customer base, but also the home of his competition.

“We’re not only competing with other professional teams in the area. We want [Mariners fans] to not go to a restaurant before coming to Safeco, so we need our prices to be competitive with downtown Seattle.”

So does the quality of the food.

“We find where we need to make some changes and go into the market and see if there’s anything locally relevant … to see what people around the ballpark are eating.”

For example, when the porchetta sandwich introduced last year didn’t meet sales expectations, Dominguez said he noticed that Rueben sandwiches were appearing on many Seattle menus, so they worked with Franz Bakery, a local favorite to come up with a marble rye baguette for them. Park and his team braise corned beef and make sauerkraut and pickles for their $13 Rueben sandwich.

For a new $13 meatball hero, they drew inspiration from Salumi Artisan Cured Meats, a local deli with a cult following, to make a pork meatball with a garlic-caper-parsley spread with mozzarella and house-made tomato sauce on a baguette.

Park also introduced his version of a Cubano, also $13, with smoked pork shoulder and a garlic-mustard-cilantro mojo as well as fresh cilantro on a toasted baguette.

A new $20 lobster roll is on the menu, made with claw meat and garlic celery aïoli on a King’s Hawaiian roll.

“That probably cost us $11 to make,” Dominguez said, but he wanted to stay competitive in the market, where competitors sell lobster rolls for $22 to $24.

The seventh-inning stretch is dessert time for baseball fans, Park said (as well as a final rush for beer as service ends at the 8th inning), and for this year Centerplate has introduced a conveyor belt-driven mini doughnut machine.

“We think it’s going to help us hit that eighth inning sugar rush,” Park said. An assortment of them is for sale for $8.

Coming back for the second year are chapulines, or grasshoppers, of which Centerplate sold 25,000 orders last year at $4 per order of 30-40 insects.

“That was one of those things where you find lightning in a bottle,” said Dominguez, who added the traditional Oaxacan snack to Safeco Field’s menu on a lark.

“We didn’t think we’d sell one order,” he said.

The grasshoppers are imported from Mexico, pre-prepared, vacuum-packed and sealed. Then Park and his team add a bake-on chile-lime seasoning and heat them up.

“It’s a quick grab-and-go item,” Park said. “People pick them up and do the Instagram photo with them. It’s hilarious.”

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected] 

Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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