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MenuMasters 2017: Shake ShackMenuMasters 2017: Shake Shack

Elevating a classic with thoughtful execution

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

May 2, 2017

3 Min Read
shake shack
The Chick'n ShackEvan Sung

Presented by Nation's Restaurant News and sponsored by Ventura Foods, the MenuMasters Awards honor culinary excellence in menu development.

Shake Shack’s award-winning Chick’n Shack sandwich, which debuted last January, was two years in the making.

But leaders of the New York City-based fast-casual chain, which has 120 units, weren’t even sure if it would have a permanent place on the menu.

Culinary director Mark Rosati said that gave him time to perfect the sandwich.

“We had the luxury of time,” Rosati said. “There was no pressure, no deadlines.”

Rosati, like many Americans, is a fan of fried chicken.

“Off the clock, traveling in the South, I visited old fried chicken stands, and often they were just shacks,” he said. “They were all kinds of idiosyncratic in the ways they developed the chicken.”

Mark-Rosati_Shake-Shack_2017_8.png

Shake Shack culinary director Mark Rosati

Rosati challenged himself to create a sandwich that would be as popular as the ShackBurger, which has fueled a rapidly growing international chain with a $1 billion market capitalization, without giving too much of a nod to classic fried chicken sandwiches.

After some experimentation, he came up with the idea of cooking the chicken breast sous-vide in a marinade of buttermilk, onion and garlic. He then considered grilling it, but found that when the chicken was battered and fried, the flavors of the marinade intensified.

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Shake Shack in the Theater District of New York City

“What was unexpected was how much more flavorful the buttermilk and other seasonings became after being fried,” Rosati said.

Then it came down to deciding what else to put on the sandwich.

“Nothing was off the table,” Rosati said.

Shake Shack has a longstanding relationship with Martin’s Famous Pastry Shoppe, which supplies potato rolls for the ShackBurger. They tried other breads, but deciding to stick with the potato rolls.

They also experimented with toppings. The ShackBurger comes with two pickles chips on request, but the Chick’n Shack has more.

“Every bite needed the pickle,” Rosati said.

To enhance the buttermilk flavor, Shake Shack developed a buttermilk-herb mayonnaise with parsley, thyme and chives.

“It’s selling incredibly, incredibly well,” Rosati said. “To even come close to the ShackBurger in sales, we would have been thrilled, but to see it go neck-and-neck at times is a huge honor.”

SHAKE SHACK’S CHICK’N SHACK SANDWICH

  • Cooking technique: After some experimentation, culinary director Mark Rosati decided to cook the chicken sous-vide, in a marinade, before frying it.

  • Flavor boost: Cooking the chicken sous-vide in a marinade of buttermilk, onion and garlic, coupled with frying,intensifies the flavors.

  • Behind the bun: Shake Shack opted to use the same potato rolls for the Chick’n Shack as it does for its signature ShackBurger.

  • Finishing touches: The sandwich is completed with plenty of pickle chips; a buttermilk-herb mayonnaise with parsley, thyme and chives; and a handful of shredded lettuce.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected]
Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor of Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality.

Hi is responsible for spotting and reporting on F&B trends across the country for both publications. 

He is the co-host of a podcast, Menu Talk with Pat and Bret, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities, and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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