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Trending Tables: Peruvian food picks up steamTrending Tables: Peruvian food picks up steam

Chefs draw inspiration from wood fires, Southern food and Asian cuisines

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

March 16, 2017

2 Min Read
lamb chops
Courtesy of Ronero

If you’re getting a whiff of huacatay and the lingering bite of aji rocoto, you might be in one of the country’s hottest restaurants. 

trendingtables150.gifEXPLORE HOT RESTAURANTS IN:
• Chicago
• Boston
• Kansas City
• Seattle
• San Antonio
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Four of this class of 33 Trending Tables — that’s 12 percent — are bringing clear Peruvian influence to bear on their food, whether it’s the herbal sauce on the lamb chops at Ronero in Chicago, the aji panca sauce on the fried butterfish at Ruka Restobar in Boston, the anticuchos at Botika in San Antonio or the ceviche at Jimmy’s Bodega in Aspen, Colo.

Apart from that, we’re seeing Southern food continue to spread in non-Southern cities, like Kansas City, Seattle and Boston, and people in often meat-centric cities like San Antonio and Chicago taking a shine to vegetarian food.

There’s also plenty of gussied up comfort food, like the reindeer pizza at Fat Ptarmigan in Anchorage, Alaska, and the cheeseburger made with local beef and lemon garlic mayonnaise at The Fat Lamb in Louisville, Ky.

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Quite apart from barbecue, which continues to expand in popularity, there are other types of wood-fired offerings at places like El Che Bar in Chicago, which draws inspiration from Argentina and flavors from wherever chef-owner John Manion sees fit. That’s one of two trendy restaurants in the Windy City with crank-operated wood-fired grills. The other is vegetable-forward Bad Hunter, which draws inspiration from places as far-flung as Korea and Italy.

There’s a lot of Asian influence at these restaurants, including Chinese at Stephanie Izard’s latest place, Duck Duck Goat in Chicago, and Chinese-American food like shrimp Rangoon and General Tso’s chicken at LongBranch in Indianapolis. But there’s also Japanese motoyaki at Ruka Restobar in Boston, Indian-spiced quail at Restaurant Gwendolyn in San Antonio, mostly Asian vegetarian dishes at Bok Choy in the same city, and a whole Indian menu at Saffron Table in Bozeman, Mont.

Of course foods inspired by France and Italy are scattered generously across these Trending Tables as always, anchoring our dining traditions even as sources for chefs’ inspiration continue to expand.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected]

Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary

Inset photo of General Tso's chicken courtesy of LongBranch

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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