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When diners know ‘cage-free’ isn’t free, they generally don’t mind paying more

Paul Frumkin, Managing Editor

March 31, 2008

3 Min Read
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Paul Frumkin

Cafe 212, a small restaurant on the campus of Columbia University, now serves only certified humane cage-free eggs in all of its breakfast sandwiches. A big, happy sign in front of the cafe announces the change and explains that because of the higher cost of the cage-free eggs, the price of breakfast sandwiches has increased by 15 cents to $3.50. There’s a truly gorgeous food photo on the poster; the orange dome of a perfect egg glistens next to an unblemished brown shell. I’d pay 15 cents more for that egg! Apparently so would everyone else.

There are plenty of reasons people may prefer organic or humanely produced food. Some people are interested in the health benefits. Some are concerned about the welfare of the animals that produce our food. Others just think organically produced food tastes better. Personally, I heard for years about the health and environmental benefits of organic produce. Then I tasted a tiny organic strawberry next to a giant, bright red conventionally raised strawberry and realized how much tastier the tiny organic one was. Now, when given the choice, I almost always opt for organic produce. I expect it to taste better, so I’m willing to pay a little bit more for it.

Organic and humanely produced food is often more expensive, but consumers may be willing to accept price increases if they know why. Fifteen cents doesn’t sound like a lot of money, and people are willing to pay higher prices for items they perceive as being of higher quality, such as beautiful, shiny eggs.

Delivering the message is key, though. A nearby bakery posted a sign saying they had raised their prices due to the increased cost of wheat. Spiking wheat costs have gotten a lot of publicity lately, and the baker’s sign reminded me of that, so I was sympathetic to the fact that she had to raise her prices a small amount if she was going to stay in business.

Community Food & Juice, also on the Upper West Side, says on its menus that it uses only wild-caught fish, grass-fed beef, free-range poultry and organic milk, flour and chocolate. Community is more expensive than most of the other dining options in the area, but it is consistently packed. I’ve seen people waiting for tables outdoors in the middle of winter. I don’t think the people in line are waiting just because the food is organic, though. We want the food because it tastes good, and the fact that it’s better for animals and the environment is a bonus that helps justify what we’re about to spend on it.

And the long waits allow you to sometimes make friends with other people in line. Last time I was there I struck up a conversation with some girls in line about how much we liked the food but hated the word “organic.” Really, all food is organic, meaning carbon-based, or else we wouldn’t be able to eat it.

“Show me some inorganic food and I will be impressed,” one of the girls said. “I probably won’t want to eat it, but I’ll be impressed.

About the Author

Paul Frumkin

Managing Editor, Nation’s Restaurant News

After graduating from the State University of New York at New Paltz with a degree in English, Paul Frumkin attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., graduating with honors in 1980. That year he moved to New York City where he worked for several foodservice and hotel publications. In 1984 he co-wrote “The Norman Table, The Traditional Cooking of Normandy,” with chef-restaurateur Claude Guermont. The cookbook, which was published by Charles Scribners Sons, won the “Best European Cookbook” award from the International Association of Culinary Professionals in 1985. He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1990 and has held a number of editorial positions there. He currently covers legislative policy and the Northeast for NRN.

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