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Chefs crown burgers with more meatChefs crown burgers with more meat

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

October 11, 2011

2 Min Read
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Bret Thorn

Restaurants attempting to make their hamburgers stand out continue to search for new things to put on top of them.

House-made sauces, unusual lettuces and signature cheese combinations have all found their way atop America’s favorite sandwich, but a number of restaurants have started topping the meat with more meat.

Besides bacon, a common addition, pastrami, pulled pork and brisket are being piled on burgers.

Michael LaScola, chef of American Seasons restaurant in Nantucket, Mass., sometimes puts oxtail “marmalade” — braised oxtail mixed with caramelized onion — on the nightly changing burger offered at the bar in the fall.

The burger is also topped with cheese and arugula and served on a brioche bun.

“That usually goes over pretty well,” LaScola said.

He also periodically uses pan-seared country pâté or foie gras as a burger topping.

At Doc Crow’s in Louisville, Ky., the Bubba Burger is half-pound beef patty topped with pulled pork, beef brisket, a fried green tomato, onion rings, a fried egg and cole slaw.

Carlsbad, Calif.-based family-dining chain Carrows topped a hamburger with pastrami as a limited-time offer this summer.

Smashburger, a fast-casual chain based in Denver, creates a signature item for each market it enters, In Brooklyn, N.Y., the chain’s Brooklyn burger is topped with Swiss cheese, pickles, onion, yellow mustard and grilled pastrami on a pretzel bun.

Red Robin’s seasonal Oktoberfest Bürger also puts beef on a pretzel bun. The bun is brushed with beer mustard and topped with a beef patty, Swiss cheese, beer-mustard sautéed onions, green leaf lettuce and black forest ham.

Seafood is also making its way onto burgers.

Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant’s lobster burger is a 10-ounce burger patty topped with 1.5 ounces of lobster drizzled with citrus sauce.

At Island Creek Oyster Bar in Boston, chef Jeremy Sewall tops a burger with Cheddar cheese, bacon, pickled onions, horseradish mayonnaise and two fried oysters.

“It’s becoming a little bit of a cult thing in the restaurant,” said Sewall, who has kept the burger on the menu since the restaurant opened about a year ago. “People who have ordered it before love it.”

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected].
Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary

Pick up the Oct. 10 issue of Nation's Restaurant News, and read "Full of Flavor" to see how chefs are using their creativity and digging deep into fatty beef cuts with burgers.

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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