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The latest chefs on the move-2012-06-05The latest chefs on the move-2012-06-05

Ben Hershberger, Dan Vargo, Johnny Earles, Emmanuel Eng, Ivy Hung, Mohan de Silva, Randy Lutz

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

June 5, 2012

3 Min Read
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Bret Thorn

Ben Hershberger, head baker of Per Se and Bouchon Bakery in New York, has joined a nonprofit training organization called Hot Bread Kitchen as head baker and instructor.

Hershberger is training low-income and foreign-born women to develop their commercial baking skills with the goal of improving their economic security.

The baked goods they make, derived from their ethnic heritage, include Mexican corn tortillas, Moroccan m’smen and Armenian lavash, and are available at local farmers markets and supermarkets. Hot Bread Kitchen’s first retail location is slated to open this July in La Marquetta in the Harlem neighborhood of New York.

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Seagar’s Prime Steak and Seafood in Destin, Fla., has hired two new chefs, Dan Vargo and Johnny Earles, who are collaborating to create “Gulf-to-table” dishes such as pumpkin swordfish ceviche and Crabmeat Louisianne with shiitake mushrooms.

Vargo most recently was executive sous chef of the Ritz-Carlton in Naples, Fla. Earles is the former owner of Criolla’s and Paradise Cafe in Grayton Beach, Fla.

Emmanuel Eng has been promoted from chef de cuisine to executive chef of Maverick in San Francisco, four months after he joined the restaurant.

A former protégé of Nancy Oakes of Boulevard in San Francisco, Eng has revamped the restaurant’s menu with items such as roasted porcini mushroom and Tennessee country ham with potato dumplings; pickled cherries and roast pork jus with Dijon mustard; flat iron “carpetbagger steak” with potato shallot cake, creamed spinach, rhubarb steak sauce and oyster-arugula pesto; and lobster bread pudding and smoked cod with mussel chowder, clams, corn and sea bean.

Ivy Hung is the new chef de cuisine at Seven Sisters, a fine-dining restaurant at Black Oak Casino in Tuolumne, Calif.
The former executive chef for Sodexo of City of Hope in Los Angeles, Hung is preparing such dishes as swordfish with Mojito ginger glaze, and tomato bisque with shaved New York Steak.

Mohan de Silva is the new pastry chef at the Baltimore Marriott Waterfront. De Silva, who most recently was the pastry chef at the Sofitel Philadelphia, is making desserts such as vanilla panna cotta on lemon jaconde in strawberry sparkling wine soup; opera torte with roasted apricots and apricot lavender sauce; and baked Alaska with pink peppercorn meringue.

Randy Lutz has been promoted from executive sous chef to executive chef of Ame, the restaurant of Lissa Doumani and Hiro Sone at The St. Regis in San Francisco. Before joining Ame, Lutz was chef de partie of Saison, which opened in San Francisco in 2009. On the restaurant’s spring menu are yellowfin tuna tartare kibbe with toasted za’atar flatbread and mint; chawan-mushi of lobster, sea urchin, shiitake and mitsuba sauce; and Berkshire pork tenderloin medallions on a “panzanella” of roasted cauliflower; and Rancho Gordo beans with Monterrey squid, warm chorizo and cuttlefish in aioli.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected].
Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
 

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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