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Birria, the Mexican stewed meat, is the hottest trend in tacosBirria, the Mexican stewed meat, is the hottest trend in tacos

Popularized in Los Angeles, its rich and flavorful qualities are being adapted across the country

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

April 19, 2023

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Birria, spiced and stewed meat, often served with some of the broth that it was cooked in, has been popular in Los Angeles for years, but it has now hit the mainstream, with taquerias, fast-casual burrito concepts, casual dining chains, and independent restaurants all offering their versions of the delicacy.

Birria, spiced and stewed meat, often served with some of the broth that it was cooked in, has been popular in Los Angeles for years, but it has now hit the mainstream, with taquerias, fast-casual burrito concepts, casual dining chains, and independent restaurants all offering their versions of the delicacy.

Although originally from Jalisco, a state on Mexico’s southwestern coast, where it was originally made with goat meat, Mexican American food journalist Bill Esparza wrote on eater.com that the version of birria tacos that has become popular in the United States actually originated in Tijuana, where beef was substituted for goat because it had a higher yield.

Dipping the tacos in the broth is a custom developed in Los Angeles, he said.

Consumer research firm Datassential reported last November that birria’s appearance on menus had grown by 144% in the past four years.

Its popularity shows no sign of slowing down, nor has the popularity of its cousin, quesabirria, which is the stewed meat with cheese in a tortilla.

Now the spiced stewed meat is being served on burgers and fries, sandwiches, and in burritos, with more innovations no-doubt on the horizon.

Take a look at some recent interpretations of birria.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected] 

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About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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