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Kung Pao with a twist is trendingKung Pao with a twist is trending

The classic Sichuan dish gets upgraded in new ways

Nancy Kruse, President

November 12, 2019

4 Min Read
BFKung Pao Monk Fish 2
Bonefish Grill

Few foods come with as dramatic a backstory as Kung Pao Chicken: the Sichuan specialty that dates back to the mid-19th century. Named for the Qing Dynasty official who favored it, the dish fell from political grace during the Cultural Revolution one hundred years later, when Maoists censored its imperial past, outlawed its name and rechristened it as simply “spicy chicken” or “quick-fried chicken.”  Rehabilitated in the 1980s, it regained its former identity in China. Here in the U.S., however, its potent combination of red chile peppers and peanuts has ensured a long run of popularity uninterrupted by shifting politics or changing tastes.

Kung Pao Protein. On the West Coast, Kung Pao Bistro claims to offer the “the best Chinese food in West Hollywood” as it cooks up its namesake dish in a variety of ways, including chicken, vegan chicken and tofu, along with a signature Kung Pao Three Musketeers dish that comprises a combination of chicken, flank steak and shrimp.

On the East Coast, Buddakan promises to “exhilarate both the eyes and taste buds” at its three locations and offers a few variations on the familiar Kung Pao dish. In the New York City and Philadelphia locations, Kung Pao Monkfish provides the sensory exhilaration , while the Atlantic City location of Buddakan offers Kung Pao Lobster.

Chain restaurants are also offering unique spins on the familiar dish: Tampa, Fla.-based chain Bonefish Grill had a seasonal Kung Pao Monkfish last fall that was flash-fried and served with peanuts, Asian vegetables and jasmine rice; this fall for a limited time, Bone Fish Grill offered the Kung Pao Shrimp prepared in the same way.  

Kung Pao Vegetables. The assertive sauce can work wonders with a plate of vegetables, and chefs are using it more often to perk up produce. Kung Pao Greens are an option at Buddakan’s Atlantic City location, and The Plimoth, a neighborhood eatery near Denver’s North City Park, has added Kung Pao Carrots and Kung Pao Broccoli to its menu.

Chicago’s Beatrix restaurants feature Kung Pao Cauliflower with toasted almonds. Fancy Radish in Washington, D.C. offers happy hour Kung Pao Cucumbers, while the restaurant’s sibling eatery V Street in Philadelphia proffers Kung Pao Crudité with crispy shallots as a starter course.  In the casual dining chain segment, P.F. Chang’s recently added wok-charred Kung Pao Brussels Sprouts to the side dish menu.

Kung Pao Mashups. California Pizza Kitchen has pioneered the concept of cross-cultural menu mashups, most often using the pizza crust as a blank canvas for a range of unexpected toppings. The pasta listing is similarly multicultural, and the popular perennial Kung Pao Spaghetti has been a staple for over 20 years.

Independents are also offering surprising Kung Pao mashups. Ruka Restobar at The Godfrey Hotel in Boston features Nikkei, or Peruvian-Japanese, cuisine with some unexpected international side trips. On the room service menu, for example, Chicken Torta is a Mexican-style sandwich, in which grilled chicken on an authentic Mexican telera roll is topped with Kung Pao sauce, Japanese mayo, Peruvian Aji Amarillo, and yellow chile. By contrast, the Bao Chicka Wow Bao on the izakaya menu tops a miso chicken burger with ginger slaw, wasabi pickles and kung pao sauce, all of which are stacked in a bao bun.

Some chefs use Kung Pao to spice up Japanese standards, as with Kung Pao Ramen at Kings DE, a dining and entertainment mecca in Boston. Here, cashews stand in for peanuts, and the noodles can be topped with crispy avocado, chicken breast or shrimp. At the top of PF Chang’s sushi list is the Kung Pao Dragon Roll, made with seared ahi tuna and tempura crunch.

And the Far East and the Middle East met this summer when Black Seed Bagels — with seven stores in and around New York City — presented Kings Co. Imperial Bagel Sandwich, a limited time offer that topped a salt bagel with Kung Pao-spiced lox and cream cheese that was mixed with a Sichuan Tiger Salad of cilantro and long peppers.

Kung Pao Convenience. Just as Kung Pao is a fixture on conventional full-service Chinese restaurant menus, it has become a standard offering in limited-service venues as well. Kung Pao Chicken is one of the Wok Smart offerings at Panda Express, which signifies items that are high in protein and low in calories.

The dish also stars in a bento box at fast-casual chain Pei Wei Asian Kitchen. Wok Box, a Canadian chain that is expanding in the U.S., promotes the Kung Pao Noodle Box as its best-selling menu item. Finally, at Angel Stadium in Anaheim, Calif. — home of the Los Angeles Angels — baseball fans can indulge in Kung Pao Drumsticks, a Chinese-American ballpark snack.  

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About the Author

Nancy Kruse

President, The Kruse Company

Nancy Kruse is a nationally recognized authority and widely quoted expert on food and menu trends. As founder and president of The Kruse Company in Atlanta, Georgia, she tracks the trends and reports on hot-button issues in both the restaurant and supermarket industries.

 A prolific food writer, Nancy is a contributor to Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality magazines. In demand as a speaker, she regularly addresses restaurant associations, major supermarket and restaurant companies, food manufacturers and promotion boards both here and abroad.

Prior to founding her own company, she served as executive vice president for Technomic, Inc., where she conducted a wide range of consulting assignments for Fortune 500 food and restaurant companies. 

Nancy earned a Master of Arts degree from the Film School of Northwestern University, and she was a Woodrow Wilson fellow in Russian literature at the University of Wisconsin. She has also completed coursework at the Culinary Institute of America, where she has served as guest lecturer. And she has been named one of the Top 100 Influencers in the US by business-networking site LinkedIn.  

 

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