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Restaurants supersize dessertRestaurants supersize dessert

Chefs say customers are eating up elaborate concoctions that feature multiple layers of flavors

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

March 7, 2013

3 Min Read
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Culina Kitchen Sink

About 10 percent of all meals and snacks eaten in restaurants include dessert, according to consumer research firm The NPD Group. But when guests do order dessert, they like to go over the top, pastry chefs and restaurateurs report.

Indulgent desserts with large portions and multiple components enjoy widespread appeal, they say.

At The Dutch at W South Beach Hotel in Miami Beach, Fla., pastry chef Josh Gripper serves Gripper’s Chocolate Grail for two, which vies with the restaurant’s signature pies for the position of top-selling dessert.

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The Grail starts with a scoop each of white chocolate rocky road ice cream, chocolate ice cream and raspberry sorbet. To that combination Gripper adds chunks of devil’s food cake, dollops of milk chocolate peanut butter cream, raspberry fluff, and milk chocolate raspberry whipped cream, as well as candied peanut butter, hazelnut butter, meringue pieces, chocolate leaves and raspberries. The dessert is finished with a drizzle of chocolate sauce and is priced at $22.

Along those lines, Culina at the Four Seasons Los Angeles at Beverly Hills crafts a Kitchen Sink dessert. The $20 item contains several of the restaurant’s housemade gelati with meringue sticks, sprinkles, caramelized hazelnuts, candied cherries, fresh fruit, chocolate and caramel syrups, and white and dark chocolate garnishes.

Chocolate Sphere

Noah French, the pastry chef at Tag restaurant in Denver, said guests are often looking for desserts to celebrate special occasions, so he developed the Chocolate Sphere, a chocolate shell stuffed with marshmallows, brownies, walnuts and vanilla cream. The dish is finished with hot caramel sauce poured over it tableside. The dessert is priced at $12.

Desserts that layer multiple treats are also proving popular this year. For example, Café Pita in Houston serves a stacked baklava cheesecake for $4.99. Omer Okanovic, chef-owner of the Bosnian restaurant, said the dessert — a wedge of baklava atop a slice of cheesecake — combines two favorite desserts of East and West, exemplifying Bosnia’s multicultural heritage.

Eleven-unit Village Tavern also offers a stacked desert at four of its locations across North Carolina and Alabama. The double-decker cheesecake features a slice of chocolate cheesecake spread with a layer of chocolate fudge, which is then topped with a slice of traditional cheesecake. The dish is garnished with raspberry sauce and chocolate glaze and priced at $6.95.

Michael Jordan's Steak House layer cake

features a plethora of layers with its 23 Layer Chocolate Cake, which is available at the three-unit chain’s restaurants in Chicago and at the Mohegan Sun resort in Uncasville, Conn.

Hillary Rikower, pastry chef at the Chicago restaurant, said the dessert is made by very thinly slicing a traditional chocolate cake into 11 layers. Those slices are alternated with layers of whipped bittersweet chocolate ganache, then spread with a shinier chocolate ganache. Each slice is garnished with vanilla whipped cream and a hazelnut tuile. The cake is priced at $14.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected].
Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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