Condiments to complement every flavor profileCondiments to complement every flavor profile

Nancy

Culinary one-upmanship isn’t restricted to the center of the plate. On the contrary, some of the hottest gastronomic battles are being waged in the condiment category, a real focal point of innovation these days. While there may be some limits to the creative potential of the basic burger patty or chicken breast, condiments offer sandwich makers seemingly endless opportunities to differentiate their products and dazzle their patrons.


Terrific toppers. The voluptuous creaminess of mayonnaise and its natural compatibility with a range of flavor agents have made it a sandwich condiment of choice. Better-burger purveyors are particularly adventurous in matching mayo to a wide range of ingredients. KGB: Kerry’s Gourmet Burgers in Las Vegas runs the gamut, with a savory roasted-red-
pepper aïoli, a sweet apple-
maple mayo and an herbal pesto mayo. Many operators are opting for more assertive flavors, like the wasabi mayo and ginger aïoli at Thunder Burger & Bar in Washington, D.C., or the onion and peppercorn mayonnaise options at Jack in the Box. The Tampa, Fla.-based Burger 21 chain gives a nod to both sides of the Atlantic with a piquant Cajun mayo and an elegant
 Dijon-chive option.


Some toppings are updated takes on the basics, like the smoked-paprika ketchup at five-unit Shula Burger in southern Florida or the chai-chipotle ketchup at Burger Monger in the Tampa area. Others, though, are totally unexpected, such as the peanut butter that finishes the Code Blue Burger at Blue Moon Burgers in Seattle or the Sriracha and caramel soy topping on the Ahi Tuna Burger at Burger 21.


Protein, plus. The recent past has seen a spate of burgers that feature a second meat as a condiment, many of which originated in the quick-service segment. Several years ago Carl’s Jr. unleashed a series of limited-time burger offerings in which the basic patty was topped with everything from prime rib to Philadelphia cheese steak to pastrami. It was a bold move that appealed to both big appetites and to value seekers, and lots of other operators now are on the bandwagon. The Chesapeake Burger at The Greene Turtle, with locations in Maryland, Delaware and Virginia, is topped with its signature crab dip, while the Yellow Belly Burger at Deschutes Brewery’s brewpubs in Oregon is topped with root-beer braised pork belly and candied yellow tomatoes. Back at Thunder Burger, the Pig in a Cow Suit is piled with barbecue pulled pork. Ram Restaurant & Brewery, based in Lakewood, Wash., goes for broke with sliced country ham, a fried egg and hickory bacon on The Faburgé; sliced country ham and shredded pork on The Ricardo; and sliced corned beef on its Reuben. 


Cheese heads. While piling meat on meat is a contemporary phenomenon, putting cheese on a burger is a traditional approach still in favor. In fact, a recent report from Chicago-based consultancy Technomic Inc. said cheeseburgers are the leading hamburger type on limited-service chain menus. More chefs are choosing unconventional cheeses, such as feta on The Greek at 67 Burger in Brooklyn, N.Y.; Manchego on the Chorizo Burger at Shula Burger; or pimento cheese on the Pimento Cheese Burger at The Southern in Chicago. Of course, cheese isn’t limited to burgers. Sandwich specialists of all types embrace its use. Arby’s recently ran a Roast Turkey Asiago Sandwich promotion, and Be’Wiched Deli in Minneapolis pairs goat cheese with smoked turkey.


Fruits and veggies, too. While produce adds flavor and color to a basic burger, it also goes a long way to ameliorate any nagging health concerns. Regardless of motivation, produce is prominent. Smashburger kicked off summer with the Original Wedge Club Burger topped with a cool iceberg lettuce wedge. Burgerville, a regional chain in the Pacific Northwest dedicated to fresh, local produce, featured the Walla Walla Sweet Onion Cheeseburger, and Gordon Biersch put a tropical fruit salsa and lemon aïoli atop the Jamaican Kobe Burger. Special props go to Be’Wiched Deli for use of ethnic exotica like preserved lemon, apple mostarda, black-pepper-glazed fennel and medjool dates, and also to trendy No. 7 Sub in New York for pickled blueberries, lima beans and lychees, as well as a nifty broccoli marmalade.


Looking ahead, texture will come into its own. Steak ‘n Shake has a new Jalapeño Crunch Steakburger; Bobby’s Burger Palace, celebrity chef Bobby Flay’s better-burger concept, offers a Crunchburger topped with potato chips; and Red Robin Gourmet Burgers topped the promotional Cry Baby Burger with crispy onion straws tossed in spicy Sriracha. Ink.sack in Los Angeles addresses the
current craze for combining Asian and Mexican cuisines with a bánh mì sandwich crowned with chicharrón. 


Nancy Kruse, president of the Kruse Company, is a menu trends analyst based in Atlanta. E-mail her at [email protected].

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