ON THE MENU: Celadon Los AngelesON THE MENU: Celadon Los Angeles

Lisa Jennings

Many chefs strive to create globally inspired menus. Danny Elmaleh, executive chef at the new Los Angeles restaurant Celadon, strives to live a globally inspired life.

Born in Israel to a Moroccan father and a Japanese mother, Elmaleh and his family moved to Japan when he was a child, and they opened a North African restaurant. He came to the United States to attend The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and graduated in 1995. After that, he returned to Japan to work at the French restaurant Jean Moulin in Kobe. Later, the young chef traveled to Milan, Italy, to work at Ristorante Giannino.

In 2001, he arrived in Los Angeles and ended up in the kitchens of acclaimed chef Josiah Citrin at Melisse and his more casual Lemon Moon, both in Santa Monica, Calif.

At Celadon, which opened in December, Elmaleh has tapped into his world travels to create a Euro-Asian small-plates menu. Most dishes are served family style to encourage a shared dining experience.

“I want our guests to explore the menu the way I’ve explored the world through food,” he says. “Every dish I make incorporates ingredients I learned about from my culture and my travels.”

A line of crudos typically are selected as starters, such as flame-grilled ahi tuna pizza with basil pesto, shaved Parmesan and fresh herbs; or a tuna tartare, layered with sesame seaweed salad and rolled in rice, then deep fried in the shape of a cube.

One of the most popular crudo dishes is the hamachi sashimi with slices of oranges and grapefruit in a ponzu gel with dried citrus peel dusting the plate.

Crispy dumplings are stuffed with scallops, shrimp and kalamata olives and served with a garlic-ponzu scallion sauce. Seafood options include a grilled wild North African octopus served with arugula pesto and crispy Spanish fideo, which are thin strands of coiled pasta.

AT A GLANCE

Location: 7910 W. Third St., Los AngelesOpened: December 2006 Average per-person check: $30-$40 without alcoholSeats: 195Cuisine: Euro-Asian Best-selling dishes: hamachi sashimi with citrus salsa, ponzu gel and citrus dust; tuna tartare “lollipop” with tempura crispy rice and sesame seaweed salad; sizzling crispy noodles and rice with scallops, shrimp and bok choyOwner: Louie YangMenu maker: Danny ElmalehWebsite:www.celadongalerie.com

Elmaleh’s meat dishes have a European bent in such offerings as grilled flat iron steak with brûlée of Gorgonzola dolce latte, onion rings, onion purée and aged-sherry gastrique. Then the chef veers away again with a traditional roast chicken with a Moroccan lentil sauce. Asia is not far behind, however, with such sides as Szechuan spicy noodles or Thai-style steamed clams.

One head-turner is the sizzling crispy noodles and rice, which is served in a hot clay pot. Marinated scallops, shrimp and bok choy—or vegetarian options, if preferred—are tossed into the pot at the table, which sizzles to offer a dramatic and aromatic display.

At dessert, Elmaleh is a big fan of all things creamy—puddings and custards—such as the trio of crème brûlées, including flavors such as royal milk tea, which is similar to a green tea, and mocha and strawberry-vanilla. On the side of the dessert he serves spoons dipped in chocolate, strawberry and vanilla sauces to further combine flavors.

A late-night bar menu on weekend nights, available from 11 p.m. to 1 a.m., includes affordable small dishes priced under $10, such as hummus with pickled chiles, kalamata olives and crispy onions or a grilled cheese panini with smoked tomato bisque.

The nearly 200-seat Celadon also offers an extensive list of high-end sake and shochu, wines from around the world, and cocktails. The “scratch bar” features such drinks as the Celadon Mojito with fresh-pressed Thai basil, lemon grass and lemon rum; and the Sakura Breeze with shochu, pomegranate juice and muddled tangerines.

In May, the restaurant plans to launch Sake Sundays, an interactive educational event for diners interested in learning more about the fundamentals of sake.

Celadon’s owner, Louie Yang, personally collected many of the Asian artifacts decorating the sultry, mostly candle-lit restaurant. It is Yang’s first venture into the foodservice industry.

CRUDO:

Spicy ahi tuna summer rolls with Korean sauce, mango and avocado $15

Kumamoto oyster with jalapeño salsa and yuzu ponzu $15

YAM CHA:

Alfredo snow crab wontons with truffle micro-herb salad $14

Hummus parfait with grilled zahtar bread, Greek kalamata olives, pickled chiles $13

SOUPS:

Mushroom miso soup $7

SALADS:

Tempura creamy spice shrimp with candied walnuts and Asian spring mix $15

FISH

Coriander-crusted salmon with black rice, glazed heirloom carrots, curried crème fraîche and hazelnuts $18

Roasted scallops with balsamic-glazed strawberries, creamy risotto and brunoise strawberries $18

MEATS

Plum-braised short ribs with sunchoke risotto $18

Seared foie gras with almond pain perdu and clementine vanilla gastrique $18

Grilled prime rib-eye with asparagus, poached egg and Parmigiano-Reggiano dressing $19

Roast duck with Okinawa sweet potato, pepita salad and date-balsamic reduction $18

DESSERTS:

Chocolate trio with chocolate soufflé, roast banana and chocolate parfait, espresso chocolate mousse mille-feuille $12

Lemon trio with baked lemon pudding, lemon-almond liqueur parfait, lemon curd $11