Whiskey market gains new popularity, innovationWhiskey market gains new popularity, innovation

Stephen Beaumont

Dave Broom is the author of “The World Atlas of Whisky,” a new book that re-envisions whiskey as the global spirit it has become, defining it not by country or region, but by consumer-friendly “flavor camps” based on each bottling’s primary attributes. We asked him for his thoughts on the state of the whiskey market today.


Irish whiskey sales are booming. What do you see as its main appeal, and where do you see the segment headed?


They certainly are growing. The appeal is, as it always has been to those of us who love them, their sheer wonderful drinkability. There is also variation in style — there may only be three distillers, but they all approach “Irish whiskey” in a different fashion. The future will depend on maintaining this momentum — [producing] more traditional pot still whiskeys, for example.


The United States is experiencing great growth in the number of craft distilleries, many of which are whiskey focused. Is there substance behind the “buy local” ethos?


Just as in the growth of craft brewing, quality will out. The distillers who take care of quality and establish an individual character for their spirits will prosper. Those who take their eyes off the ball will fail. I genuinely believe there are some great distillers out there — all around the world — with great product, who are approaching whiskey in a new and innovative fashion. 


Bourbon has started to break free of its style straitjacket with some innovation coming to market. Do you see this as progress or an attempt to cash in on Scotland’s success with wood finishes?


The funny thing with innovation in whisky is that because of the nature of the drink — being wood matured — it takes years for a new technique to appear. I think what we are now seeing in bourbon is the fruits of a process which started 10 or more years ago. Yes, it’s progress, and I think bourbon is currently the most exciting member of the whisky family. Cashing in? No. 


Speaking of wood finishes, the Scots still seem very much in their thrall. Is there an end in sight, or are we going to continue to see more and more unusual cask finishes?


I’d have to disagree here. Rather than being in their thrall, I’m seeing fewer and fewer finishes and am delighted.


Are Scottish whisky blends beginning to lose steam?


Far from it. While blends struggle in the old markets, they are booming in new markets such as Brazil, Mexico, South Africa, China, Russia, etc. Scotch sales are growing significantly, and it is being led by blends. 


We’re hearing more and more about whiskey and food pairings. Where do you stand on them and why?


I’m fascinated by them from a technical point of view — working out what flavors go with what — and from a position of sheer perversity — why the hell shouldn’t we drink whiskey with food? It’s pretty apparent to anyone who has tried it that whiskey is better than wine with cheese and chocolate, and it is a thrilling match with seafood, especially sushi. I’m not advocating that people give up wine or beer with their meal, just asking them to give whiskey a chance with some dishes. If only chefs would listen.


American bars still generally serve their malt whiskies in tumblers or snifters. Would you endorse the adoption of a more whiskey-specific glass, and if so, what?


For single malts, premium bourbons and such, yes. The Glencairn glass [a tasting glass developed by the Scottish whisky industry] is an excellent all rounder, but the standard nosing glass [similar to a sherry copita] is even better.


How did the Japanese distilleries weather the recent earthquake and tsunami disasters? What can we expect to see from them in the years to come?


The good news from a whiskey point of view is that all are well. The nearest distillery to Sendai [Miyagikyo distillery] was unaffected, and all staff are fine. I think the Japanese will do what the Japanese have always done after every natural disaster that has befallen their country — regroup and rebuild. Although there are stock issues within single malt as a result of low production levels a decade or so ago, I still see [Japan] as being a major force in single malt in the medium term.