New York David Chang pioneered the super-high-end kitchen counter that has become the format of a growing number of fine-dining restaurants. “The restaurant is noteworthy for the intense, revelatory pleasures of its partly Asian, partly French, wholly inventive food,” wrote Frank Bruni of The New York Times. “For a reasonable sum you get a number and caliber of dishes — including a wacky and wonderful blizzard of cold foie gras flakes and a cheeky panna cotta ...

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