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Richard Sandoval targets latest acquisition for growth modelRichard Sandoval targets latest acquisition for growth model

The restaurateur is modeling Atlanta’s Zocalo on one of his existing restaurants

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

May 28, 2013

3 Min Read
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Richard Sandoval has been operating restaurants across the world for 17 years, since he opened Maya, an upscale Mexican restaurant in New York City.

Sandoval sees his latest venture, a reinterpretation of historic Atlanta restaurant Zocalo, as a template for further expansion. He purchased a majority stake in Zocalo from its original owners and reopened it about a month ago with a new menu based on that of Venga Venga, his restaurant in the ski town of Snowmass, Colo., about 15 miles from Aspen.

“It’s kind of like a cantina,” Sandoval said of Venga Venga. The food is approachable for mainstream Americans — enchiladas, tacos, queso fundido, ceviche, flautas, plus a few signature items such as pan-seared achiote salmon — and drinks make up about 40 percent of revenue.

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Business is good at Venga Venga, and so are the economics. The straightforward menu means he can serve 800 people a day with just three people in the kitchen, compared to between four and six kitchen staff at lower-volume Maya. And Venga Venga’s food cost is a manageable 23–24 percent. The average check is around $14-$15 at lunch and $25-$26 at dinner.

But Snowmass is a seasonal town, and business drops by 60 percent once the snow melts, Sandoval said.

He said Zocalo lets him experiment to see if the same model can work year-round.

Zocalo

The Atlanta restaurant has some unique qualities, such as its history, to which Sandoval is paying homage by retaining signature dishes, such as cochinita pibil, a Yucatán-style roasted pork, and its signature lemony margarita.

“It’s almost like a lemonade,” Sandoval said. “It’s a very refreshing margarita.”

He has beefed up the drink program, with new variations on the margarita, such as the Cadillac, made with aged reposado tequila, and the Atlantarita, sweetened with peach liqueur. He also offers sangria and a variety of flavored Mojitos, as well as nine Mexican beers by the bottle and a robust wine-by-the-glass program.

Lucero Martinez-Obregon, whose family opened Zocalo in 1995, remains chef. She has also been executive chef at Sandoval’s Pampano restaurant in New York City since 2009. Sandoval said Martinez-Obregon is helping turn Zocalo around, after it suffered some recent neglect.

“It was kind of run-down,” Sandoval said. However, “Every day sales are growing compared to last year. People who had stopped going are coming back.”

At just 2,000 square feet, Zocalo is on the small side of what Sandoval envisions in a future chain, which would have 3,000-4,000 square feet. That is still significantly smaller than his 6,000-square-foot La Sandia concept.

“It’s a model that I love,” Sandoval said. “The investment’s not very high, and labor’s very low. With Obamacare, you have to find a way to open these restaurants with that kind of labor model,” he said, adding that he is currently scouting locations in San Diego.

Once the model is further fine-tuned, he said he might consider franchising.

Sandoval currently operates some 35 restaurants, many of them one-off concepts such as Raymi, which serves Peruvian food in New York City; Tamayo, offering contemporary Mexican food in downtown Denver; and Toro Toro, a churrascaria in Dubai. His largest chains, Asian-Latin Zengo and Mexican restaurant and tequileria La Sandia, have four units each.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected].
Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
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Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
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