Los Angeles tables: Postmodern is backLos Angeles tables: Postmodern is back

High-concept restaurants are drawing Angelenos who are feasting literally on the raw beef with grilled yogurt at Trois Mec and the deceptively simple-sounding dishes at Hinoki & the Bird, and figuratively on the ancient-China-meets-modern-Los-Angeles conceit at Chi Lin — named after an enchanted animal in Chinese mythology.

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