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FDA ‘gluten free’ definition provides clarity to restaurantsFDA ‘gluten free’ definition provides clarity to restaurants

Labeling standard could make it easier for operators to tap growing gluten-free market

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

August 7, 2013

3 Min Read
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The Food and Drug Administration’s new definition of food labeled as “gluten free” might make it easier for restaurants to offer genuinely gluten-free items because their chefs and purchasing staff will understand more clearly what the term means, according to menu and diet experts.

That, in turn, will help restaurants to tap into the growing market of consumers avoiding gluten, estimated by some to be as high as 15 percent of the population.

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The new rule, published in the Federal Register on Aug. 5, requires items voluntarily labeled as “gluten free” or with similar terms such as “no gluten,” “free of gluten” or “without gluten” to contain fewer than 20 parts per million of gluten, a protein found in wheat, barley, rye and related grains.

Packaged food companies have one year to comply with the new rule.

The FDA cites estimates of the number of Americans suffering from celiac disease — a gluten allergy — at between 1.5 million and 3 million, while Betsy Craig, founder of nutrition consulting firm Menu Trinfo, says that about 10 percent of Americans have celiac or other forms of wheat intolerance.

Anita Jones-Mueller, president of nutrition consulting company Healthy Dining, which operates the website Healthy Dining Finder, said that estimates of the gluten-free market go as high as 15 percent of the population if you include friends and family of people avoiding gluten.

Many “gluten free” items at restaurants now fail to meet the FDA’s new standard, according to Craig. She said that 90 percent of the menu items claiming to be gluten free actually contain quite a bit of gluten.

“These chefs’ hearts are in the right place and they think they’re doing the right thing, but when we look under the hood we see that they need more help,” she explained. “There are so many ingredients that mean gluten that don’t say ‘gluten’ — things like malt, or malt vinegar, or barley or rye.

But once the new rules are in effect, she noted, restaurateurs will be able to buy anything labeled as “gluten free” without having to analyze the ingredient list.

Jones-Mueller said people with celiac disease, whose long-term health can be seriously affected by gluten, currently can’t trust gluten-free labels or menus.

She added that restaurants seeking to offer gluten-free items under the new regulations “are really going to have to commit to it” with training and implementation of procedures that remove the risk of cross-contamination.

“Gluten’s a very small speck of grain and it travels very easily,” she noted.

“If [restaurants] can take that next step and be committed to serve items that meet that mark — and that would really take a commitment — they could really benefit,” she said, noting that the online community of people who avoid gluten eagerly supports restaurants that meet their needs.

Jones-Mueller recommends that restaurants follow the Gluten-free Resource Education Awareness Training, or GREAT, program developed by the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected].
Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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